Benaras is older than history
Varanasi: The Oldest Living City in the World
“Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” - Mark Twain
Varanasi got its name from the rivers Varuna and Assi that both join the Ganga in this location. And considered a sacred land since the dawn of its time. Also referred to as Benaras or Kashi, the city has become a holy celebration of not only Hindus, but also the Buddhists and Jain. Numerous people have talked about their surreal experiences of visiting the city and its spiritual awareness. So, why are people drawn to one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world? Even in the olden times when pilgrims had to cover forests and mountains to reach the city, with chances of never being able to go back, what kept them going to the holy city of Varanasi? Let’s start from the very beginning.
History
The city is first mentioned in the Upanishads (holy scriptures of Hindu), as Benaras, and is said to be the first Aaryan settlement in the Ganges valley. Since then, it is known for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculptures. It became the capital of the Kashi kingdom in the 6th century BCE, around when the Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath, located 12 km away. The city was then an educational, cultural, and artistic hub. Varanasi declined during the 3 centuries under the Mughal rule, which destroyed many Hindu temples and ghats. The late 17th century saw the Marathas rebuilding the pilgrimage city and it became an independent kingdom in the 18th century. The British rule saw Varanasi remain a religious and cultural center, during which time Mark Twain visited Varanasi and wrote about its beauty and traditions. And then came the independence of India, which led to the city becoming a part of Uttar Pradesh.
The Legends and the Ghats
The Hindus believe Varanasi to be the home of Lord Shiva and Parvati. The city lies on the river Ganga, is said to be celestial and channelized by Lord Shiva on earth. A dip in its holy waters is known to absolve one sin, and to be cremated on its banks is to attain moksha (salvation). These beliefs have made Benaras, a city of life and death; a place where art, music, and culture thrive, and a place where the devotees wish to take their final breath. A few of the famous ghats and their significance:
· One of the holiest ghats for cremation is the Manikarnika ghat (the burning ghat). Shrouded with legends, Lord Shiva’s earring (Manikarnika) fell into the Ganges while watching Lord Vishnu dig a Kund (pit) with his chakra and fill it with the perspiration through his penances.
· Another important ghat is the Dashashwamedh ghat which hosts the Ganga Aarti every evening. It is significant for the myth of Lord Bramha creating it for welcoming Lord Shiva, and hence acts a magnet for the devotees and tourists alike.
· The Assi ghat welcomes Hindu pilgrims who bathe in the Ganga before worshipping the enormous Shiva Linga under a pipal tree.
· Darbhanga ghat has an adjacent fort (now a hotel), built by Shridhara Narayana Munshi. The hotel has now turned into being one of the most photographed scenes of the ghat.
· The Man Mandir ghat boasts about the ornate palace built by Rajput king Man Singh of Jaipur in 1600.
The city has astounding 88 ghats with its current patrons being Marathas, Shindes, Holkars, Bhonsales, and Peshwas; the rest are private, with each ghat having its own story.
Contemporary City
The ancient city of Varanasi is applauded for its hundreds of shrines, temples, and palaces. But it is also known as a city of Hindu learning that has been passed down for generations and carried forward by many colleges and schools. The older parts of the city have narrow winding roads, making it almost impossible for vehicles to pass through. The newer suburbs are more planned. The city is bound by a road known as Panchkosi. The city is a celebration of various forms of arts, crafts, music, and dance. And is further brought to life by the numerous religious festivals celebrated by the gathering of devotees from all corners of India, and even the world. Mahashivratri is an important procession that takes place from the Mahamrityunjaya Temple to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The Ganga is worshipped by setting afloat thousand diyas (lamps) into the river after a grand ceremony on the ghats. The Tulsi ghat hosts five-day dhrupad (Indian classical music style) that gathers various artists from the country for a musical celebration. With its many festivals also come the many temples, each unique to the god it worships. A few examples are of the Annapoorna Devi temple located before Lord Vishwanath’s; the Bhairavnath temple, and the famous Hanuman temple, where the monkeys are said to outnumber the devotees. The city is also packed with street vendors and shops showcasing the infamous Banarasi sarees, varying sizes of bottled gangajal, flower vendors, and a constant flow of pilgrims and Hindu priests.
Varanasi is a city to be drawn to, for its charming chaos, that immerses you in the experience of discovering yourself. When people immerse themselves in the waters of Ganga, with the Lord of Sun as a witness, they give up one beloved thing with three handfuls of water. Such an offering to the Ganga is said to be unbreakable, and one sin is atoned for. With the ever-growing India, the number of devotees has also increased, even from other parts of the world. The reason is the undimming aura and time-honored rituals of the city that keep attracting travelers. So, what will you be offering the Ganga when you visit the oldest living city in the world?
